A Review of John Galliano’s Fall 1994 Ready-to-Wear Collection by Aleisha Petafi
You may know John Galliano as the creative director of Givenchy, Dior, or more recently, Maison Margiela. Best known for his remarkable unpredictability and avant-garde creations, the haute couture designer has been behind some of the most iconic, and influential collections in the industry.
When I think of Galliano, I think of theatre. Not just because of his early career in theatre, but because of his exact theatrical precision in each of his garments. When you look back at his Fall/Winter 1994 collection you can completely understand why.
The Runway
Firstly, the runway itself was staged across two rooms, separated by a tall, narrow doorway that became a central part of the performance. The models, or “Galliano girls,” moved through the space with a fluidity and freedom that added to the sense of theatre. Each model was a character in their own right. They fully embraced the role of their outfits. They didn’t simply walk; they performed. Some also posed with casual elegance; leaning against the doorway frame, giving the impression that they were part of a larger, ongoing narrative. Their movements were deliberate, yet effortless. They served the garments with the same precision and intent you would expect from a seasoned performer.
This show was more than just a collection; it was a statement. Back in an era when fashion shows were viewed as true experiences rather than just a display of clothing, Galliano redefined what it meant to present fashion. He blurred the lines between performance art and couture. The runway show was elevated into a space where storytelling, drama, and fashion seamlessly converged. This Fall/Winter 1994 collection became an unforgettable moment in fashion history, marking Galliano as one of the most visionary designers of his time.
The Garments
Furthermore, between the nudity, fur, and abstract headwear, each look was both harmonious and uniquely distinct. The collection featured bold statement pieces paired with avant-garde headpieces. Each one crafted with its own individual character. Black low-cut suits, diamanté veils, gold accessories, untamed knitwear, open-back kimonos, and eye-catching brooches. They all came together to create a dramatic, yet cohesive narrative. A clear influence of 1920s glamour mixed with Eastern Asian elements, blending history and culture in a way only Galliano could.
“This is the collection that marked the bridge between the ruling
minimalism of Margiela and Lang and the maximalism-to-come of Galliano and McQueen.”
Finally, in many ways, the collection was ahead of its time, whilst simultaneously possessing a timeless quality; a perfect example of a capsule collection. He captures both innovation and enduring appeal. This show took also place in the same year Galliano landed his position at Givenchy, arguably leading to the most pivotal point in his career.
Photo credits: Guy Marineau
Found in Vogue – https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-1994-ready-to-wear/john-galliano/slideshow/collection#1
Written by Aleisha Petafi
Instagram – @aleishapetafi
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